/ THE GARMENT
FROM FABRIC TO FINISHED GARMENT.
The First Fitting
An ESQ tailor will meet you at your convenience – at your home, office or in our Chicago showroom, and guide you through options of fabric and design, as well as help you determine the perfect custom suit for any specific occasion you need. After taking your measurements, our tailors will send his order to our creative director, Ge Wang, where he will design the final allowances for pattern cutting. Simultaneously, your fabric will be collected from one of our mills in the U.K. or Italy.
The Pattern Cutting
The English or Italian fabric you requested has now been delivered to ESQ’s pattern cutters. They will cut the fabric for your garment, a lengthy process by hand that takes over an hour for a typical garment. After the cutting, the many pieces of fabric – a typical jacket may have up to 100 in total – is tagged with the your specific specifications, including fit and design. The fabrics are then passed on to our sewing experts.
Every detail you can see is sewn completely by hand. The end result is a fabric that looks and feels alive, while allowing proper give and bounce at every seam.
The Sewing and Stitching
Your garment will truly start to take shape here. In the next 20 or so hours, your jacket will be passed along our specialist tailors. Together, they will start sewing and stitching your garment together. The handmade process is quite time intensive, as one single buttonhole typically requires over 300 stitches and takes roughly 15 minutes – so for a typical jacket, over two hours just for buttonholes. The reason for hand stitching is that it is the only way to preserve the proper tension in each seam.
This is also where your unique lining starts to be sewn into your garment. Rather than sewn into a jacket at the end of the process, our linings are carefully sewn into your jacket along the way to allow for perfect tension and structure. For a custom lining, this can take an additional 4 hours to ensure that your images are correct dimensions and lined up perfectly.
The reason for hand stitching is that it is the only way to preserve the proper tension in each seam.
An overlooked process is the jacket’s pressing. For each suit jacket, approximately 30 pressing stages are performed. Going back to how a well cut jacket should hang nicely on a hanger, this process ensures that each garment retains its structure throughout its entire life.
The Final Inspection
Your custom suit receives great care and attention throughout the entire tailoring process, but no check is more rigorous than the final inspection. Prior to this step, your garment is checked at every stage, from pattern cutting to sewing and stitching. During the final inspection, each detail will be combed through to ensure that it is everything you wish. Your garment is now soon ready for you to wear.
The Personal Touch
Your garment has been nearly finished, and just is awaiting its final touch. A tailor is sewing your name directly into the garment, rather than on a label. There is no mistake as to whom the garment has been made.
The Final Fitting
Just one month after your first fitting, your custom suit is now almost ready to wear. At the final fitting, you will be the judge of your garment. If you wish to make any small adjustments, we will correct everything until you are completely satisfied. This is our guarantee.